Sultanahmet (Istanbul’s Old City) is packed with history—and incredible food. This guide distills everything a first‑time visitor needs: where to eat (from street carts to fine dining), what to order, price cues, dietary notes, etiquette, and a plug‑and‑play itinerary.
TL;DR: Quick Picks
- 🥨 Street food: Simit carts on Sultanahmet Square • Döner wraps along Divanyolu Caddesi (tram street) • Balık‑ekmek (fish sandwich) at Eminönü (by Galata Bridge) • Roasted chestnuts (kestane) in cooler months • Midye dolma (stuffed mussels) at night.
- 🍢 Casual musts: Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi (classic köfte) • Buhara Ocakbaşı / Sultanahmet Kebab House (grills & meze) • Şehzade Cağ Kebap (Erzurum‑style cağ kebabı) • Ortaklar Kebap & Lahmacun (budget lahmacun/pide)
- 🍽️ Ottoman/fine dining: Matbah Restaurant • Deraliye Ottoman Cuisine • Giritli (Aegean/Crete‑inspired seafood set menu) • Balıkçı Sabahattin (historic seafood house)
- 🍮 Desserts & sweets: Hafız Mustafa 1864 (baklava & lokum) • Hacı Bekir (historic Turkish delight) • Künefe at kebab houses or dessert cafés • Sütlaç at muhallebici (pudding shops)
How to Choose (Answer these 4 questions)
1️⃣ Street food, casual, or fine dining?
2️⃣ Cravings: kebab, pide/lahmacun, köfte, seafood, meze, desserts?
3️⃣ Dietary needs: halal (standard in Turkish kitchens), vegetarian/vegan, gluten/dairy limits?
4️⃣ Open to regional/fusion twists? (e.g., Southeast‑style spicy Adana, Central Anatolian etliekmek, Cretan mezes)
Iconic Street Foods (Near the Sights)
🥨 Simit (sesame ring): Buy from red carts on Sultanahmet Square in the morning. Eat plain or with cheese; pair with hot tea.
🥙 Döner dürüm (wrap): Along Divanyolu Caddesi (T1 tram line). Order tavuk (chicken) or et (beef/lamb), ask for salad/pickles inside.
🍕 Lahmacun & Pide: Ultra‑thin spicy lahmacun (squeeze lemon and roll). Pide is boat‑shaped with fillings (cheese, spinach, minced meat).
🦪 Midye dolma (stuffed mussels): Evening snack; squeeze lemon and pop whole. Start with a few—sneaky filling!
🌰 Kestane kebap (roasted chestnuts): Best in autumn/winter; sold by weight.
🐟 Balık‑ekmek (fish sandwich): Short hop to Eminönü; grab one by the water and eat standing.
Hygiene tip: Choose busy vendors; prefer items cooked/served hot. Carry small cash for carts.
Casual & Local Favorites (Sit‑Down, No Fuss)
Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi (since 1920)
- ⭐ Why go: Old‑school köfte (beef/lamb meatballs), white bean salad (piyaz), crusty bread, lightning‑fast service.
- 👌 Best for: First‑timers; classic flavors at local prices.
- 🍽️ Order: Köfte + piyaz + ayran. Dessert if available: semolina helva.
Buhara Ocakbaşı / Sultanahmet Kebab House
- ⭐ Why go: Mixed grills (Adana/Urfa), skewers, meze variety; friendly to groups.
- 🍽️ Order: Mixed grill platter to sample, plus ezme (spicy tomato meze) and grilled veg.
Şehzade Cağ Kebap (Sirkeci side)
- ⭐ Why go: Juicy cağ kebabı (horizontal spit, Erzurum style); limited menu, done right.
- 🍽️ Order: 2 skewers per person + lavash + yogurt.
Ortaklar Kebap & Lahmacun (Budget hero)
- ⭐ Why go: Big menu, great lahmacun/pide, soups, fresh salads, pomegranate juice.
- 🍽️ Order: 2 lahmacun + kaşarlı pide (cheese pide) + shepherd’s salad.
Lokantas (Home‑style canteens)
- 🍲 What they are: Steam‑table daily dishes—stews, veggie zeytinyağlı, rice, soups.
- ⭐ Why go: Super local, cheap, great for vegetarians.
- 🍽️ How to order: Point and choose; mix small portions to taste more.
Price cue (casual): Expect ~€6–12 per person at budget spots; ~€12–20 at popular grills (2025, excl. drinks).
Ottoman & Fine Dining (Date‑Night, Special Meals)
Matbah Restaurant (Ottoman imperial recipes)
- ⭐ Why go: Historic palace dishes—lamb with apricot, stuffed melon, almond puddings—served in an elegant setting.
- 🕰️ Tip: Book for sunset; ask for the Ottoman specials.
Deraliye Ottoman Cuisine (steps from Hagia Sophia)
- ⭐ Why go: Refined classics like hünkar beğendi (sultan’s delight), rich stews, polished service.
- 👩🍳 Extra: Daytime cooking classes on traditional dishes.
Giritli (Aegean/Crete‑inspired set menu)
- ⭐ Why go: Courtyard ambiance; olive‑oil mezes, seafood, herbs not common elsewhere.
- 🍷 Format: Fixed menu (mezes + hot starters + fish + dessert), often includes wine/rakı.
Balıkçı Sabahattin (Historic seafood house)
- ⭐ Why go: Wooden Ottoman house; meze tray, catch‑of‑the‑day fish, nostalgic vibe.
- 🍽️ Order: Stuffed mussels, grilled calamari, seasonal fish.
Price cue (fine dining): ~€25–45+ per person depending on fish/wine.
Regional & Fusion Flavors (Within/near Sultanahmet)
- 🌶️ Southeast spice at Bitlisli: Chili‑forward Adana kebabı, garlicky Antep lahmacun, hearty portions.
- 🍞 Konya kitchen at Güvenç Konyalı (Sirkeci): Etliekmek (long thin flatbread with minced meat), tandır lamb.
- 🏺 Cappadocia show dish: Testi kebabı (clay‑pot stew cracked open at the table) at select restaurants.
- 🍴 Modern twists: Hotel restaurants/cafés may plate Ottoman flavors with contemporary presentation.
Sweet Endings: Where & What to Eat
- 🥧 Baklava: Hafız Mustafa 1864 (Sirkeci side) for pistachio/walnut varieties; ask for a dollop of kaymak (clotted cream).
- 🍬 Lokum (Turkish delight): Hacı Bekir (since 1777) for authentic rose, citrus, pomegranate‑pistachio.
- 🧀 Künefe: Order hot at kebab houses/dessert cafés; share one (rich, cheesy, syrupy).
- 🍚 Sütlaç (rice pudding): Try fırın sütlaç (oven‑browned top) at a muhallebici; lighter than syrup pastries.
- 🍦 Ice cream (dondurma): Street vendors do a playful “paddle” show; chewy, slow‑melting texture.
Dietary & Practical Notes
- ✅ Halal: Standard in traditional Turkish kitchens; pork is rare. Some restaurants are alcohol‑free—ask if you prefer that.
- 🥦 Vegetarian: Easy wins—zeytinyağlı veggies, lentil soup, salads, pide/cheese bakes, meze spreads. Ask for yalancı dolma (meat‑free).
- 🌱 Vegan: Simit, roasted chestnuts, veggie mezes (check yogurt/butter), olive‑oil stews, salads, grilled veg.
- 🌾 Gluten/Dairy: Bread & yogurt are common; request kebabs without bread; mind butter in rice/pastries.
- 💧 Water: Drink bottled; ice is generally safe in established venues.
- 💳 Payments: Cards widely accepted; keep cash for carts/tips.
- 🚭 Smoking: Indoors banned; terraces may allow it.
- 🚻 Restrooms: Often down narrow stairs in historic buildings; carry tissues.
Etiquette & Handy Phrases
- 💰 Tipping: 5–10% (casual), up to 10–15% (fine dining). Cash on table or hand to server.
- 🧾 Ask for the bill: “Hesap lütfen.” Staff won’t rush you unless asked.
- 🙌 Enjoy your meal: “Afiyet olsun.”
- 🗣️ Basic orders:
- “Bir ayran lütfen.” (One ayran, please.)
- “Acılı/acı değil olsun.” (Make it spicy/not spicy.)
- “Et yok/süt yok lütfen.” (No meat/no milk, please.)
One Perfect Food Day in Sultanahmet
⏰ 08:30 — 🥨 Simit + Turkish tea on Sultanahmet Square.
☕ 10:30 — Turkish coffee break near the Basilica Cistern.
🍖 12:30 — Köfte lunch at Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi (add piyaz).
🍰 15:30 — Baklava and lokum tasting at Hafız Mustafa / Hacı Bekir (coffee optional).
🌇 18:30 — Sunset drink (if desired) on a rooftop terrace with mosque views.
🍷 19:30 — Ottoman dinner at Matbah/Deraliye or seafood meze night at Giritli/Balıkçı Sabahattin.
🧀 22:00 — Künefe nightcap or a cone of dondurma.
🌙 Late — If peckish: midye dolma or balık‑ekmek (Eminönü).
Map & Logistics (At a Glance)
- 🚋 Tram: T1 line (Bağcılar–Kabataş). Get off at Sultanahmet or Gülhane for most spots; Sirkeci for cağ kebabı/etli ekmek and Hafız Mustafa/Hacı Bekir.
- ⏱️ Busy hours: 12:00–14:00 lunch; 19:30–21:00 dinner. Reserve fine dining/rooftops.
- 👔 Dress: Smart‑casual is fine almost everywhere.
Ordering Cheat Sheet (By Craving)
- 🍢 Grill feast: Mixed kebab platter + ezme + lavash + ayran.
- 🍕 Doughy goodness: 2× lahmacun + lemon + parsley; share a kaşarlı pide.
- 🐟 Seafood night: Meze tray (octopus, eggplant, yogurt dips) + grilled seasonal fish + raki.
- 🥗 Comfort set: Lentil soup + stuffed peppers (yalancı dolma) + rice + salad + fırın sütlaç.
- 🍮 Sweet tooth: Pistachio baklava + kaymak; künefe to share.
Final Tips
- 👥 Follow the locals: if a place is busy at peak time, it’s usually good.
- 📋 Posted menus should list prices in TL; for fish sold by weight, ask the price per kilo before ordering.
- 🎯 Don’t overplan—leave room for a spontaneous street snack or a dessert detour.
Afiyet olsun — enjoy your meal in Sultanahmet!